You will need 50mmx2m sanding belts from 40,80,120,180,220 grit.

The next important thing is the health issue. I have dust extraction in my grinding area, THIS HELPS REDUCE SANDING DUST. When you grind steel with aluminium oxide grinding belts you have a dust coming of the belt, which is very bad for your lungs on a long term exposure! This explains the next picture which is me wearing ear defenders and a 3M dust-filter mask. YOU MUST WEAR THIS EVERY TIME YOU GRIND!

Below you can see my grinder with the extraction tube attached to it.

This is my disc sander. Very important for making the union between the handle material and the guard.

This is the flat pattern.

This the small wheel attachment (12,15 and 22mm).

I use the end wheel on the flat plattern to grind my ricasso. This is a 32mm wheel.

And this is the big wheel attachment (300, 250, 200mm).

Now I can explain the steps of how you grind a knife. It is not as complicated as it may seem. This is the forged blank ready for grinding.

First establish a good form for the blade by using the flat pattern with a 40 grit belt.

As you can see, a good shape has been established.

For marking the blade you will need these simple tools: a vernier caliper, a good steel rule, a precision scriber and an indelible fine point black pen.

After establishing the good shape the blade is given a distal taper, meaning it tapers from the ricasso to the point.

Having established a distal taper and ground with 40,80,120 and 180 grit. I have marked on the blade in black pen the area you must not now invade into when grinding the cutting edge.

Now I establish, with an 80 grit belt, the cutting edge.

Remember that the cutting edge runs exactly down the center of the blade. It helps to put a visual marker in with a pen. You slowly move the 80 grit back up the blade until it gets close to the final position of the flat grind. Then you change over to a 120 grid for the ricasso grinding.

Now comes the hardest part to learn. My blades all have a ricasso which elegantly scoops up from the blade surface to a hard line. This is all done by careful marking with a scribe line. Then marked just behing the scribed line with a black pen so you can see it when grinding.

You can see here the clear area marked in black showing the end of the grind to a 120 grit.

Handgrinding the ricasso scoop.

The ricasso established on both sides of the blade. It is important to remember to get the largest flat area that you can when you establish the ricasso. If you make the area too small there will be a great chance of getting a left-right mismatch.

Establishing a good form for the choil with the small wheel attachment.

Using a large wheel. I use the 200mm at 120 grit, I flatten any little ripples out.

Choil, ricasso and blade ready for marking of back of blade.

Where the ricasso comes up and then straightens at the top of the curve, I mark 2mm up from that line the hard line for the destinctive back I put on my blades. A lot of knife makers don't make this kind of back on their blades. I do this because I feel it makes my blades more elegant as well as the practical reason of dispersing any stress which may occur when the blade is put under lateral force.

Filing in the back and clip of my blade.

Punching in my makers' mark.

This is a picture of the finished blade. It is a 120 layer 203E and 1:2846 random pattern with a 304 stainless guard and English wallnut handle.